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| Claret Cup Cactus, Kelly Point, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument |
I went back. I just
had to. Unfinished business is a
powerful motivator, and I also have an assignment for an illustrated magazine article
about Grand Canyon – Parashant National Monument.
My husband was game, bless him, and Gypsy the wonder dog came
too. She was queued up for knee surgery
just after the trip, so our family hikes were limited to easy walks she could
do three-legged without risking another injury.
The hike to Mount Trumbull’s summit would have to wait, but in the
vicinity is a lovely 10,000-year-old petroglyph site called Nanpaweap (not to
be confused with the Grand Canyon location Called Nankoweap. ‘Weap’ apparently refers
to a canyon.) The dirt road on the way there from Fredonia was about 50 miles. We considered that this expedition’s short
drive.
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| Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse, Just outside Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument |
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Mount Trumbull Schoolhouse, Just outside Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
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From there we headed west to the Mount Trumbull
Schoolhouse. That section of road was
slow and only disconcerting in a curvy section with big drop-offs. Meeting a vehicle in the other direction
would be harrowing, but we didn’t. The
schoolhouse was completed in 1922 and served students until 1966. It also served as a town hall, church, and dance
hall. Peak population in the area was
200-259 in the 1930s, and the last full-time resident left in 1984. The
building was restored to near-original condition in 1994. Arsonists burned it down in 2000 and was
restored with funding from a private – BLM partnership in 2001
From there we acted on particularly bad judgement and took
the 18-mile route over BLM Road 1018 (not for nothing, in radio code 10-18
means ‘urgent’) to Poverty Junction. Though
we were never in danger of bodily harm, the road was too rough for our 144-inch
wheelbase Sprinter, despite its ground clearance and capable four-wheel-drive. We worried most about needing a recovery
vehicle there to extract the 4-ton beast. We completed that route in about 3 ½ hours.
Breathing exercises were helpful. I’d do the road on an ATV, but it would be a
challenge even in a short-wheelbase Jeep. There was no permanent damage to
anything but our nerves.
This brings me to an important observation about Parashant
in general. The major ridges and
drainages run north and south. The roads
running parallel to these are generally not harrowing, just slow and
painstaking. These two challenging ones,
and the one I wrote about when reporting on the December trip, are all oriented
east-west. The practical advice I can offer about that is to think of the
monument as consisting of three “compartments,” each accessed from a different
point. It’s both better and quicker to
retreat to civilization, go to the next access point, and re-enter the
monument. The sections are accessed from
Mesquite Nevada, St. George Utah, and Fredonia Arizona.
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Grand Canyon is out there somewhere. Poverty Junction Area, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
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Exhausted from that ordeal, we had an adult beverage and
spent that night tucked into the forest in the Poverty Junction area. I flew the drone from there and found it a
great vantage point to show the vastness of the Monument, greater than 1
million acres.
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Sunrise from Twin Point, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
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We did some exploring on the way to revisit Twin Point,
looking for other interesting vantage points on Grand Canyon, but in the end
scooted out to Twin. Unfortunately,
three guys (in three vehicles) with no idea about camping ethics came speeding
in a couple of hours after we did, and camped ten yards from us, if that.
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Backlighted cactus from Twin Point, Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
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We’d planned to stay two nights, but after I
got the sunset and sunrise shots I wanted for the assignment from the tip of
the point, we relocated to a lovely west facing spot a few miles away for the
night. There we found the peace we sought, and my favorite shot of the trip (above).
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| Virgin River from the December trip |
The route out to St George is 95 miles, requiring about five
hours. The trip home from there was a
bit more than that, so we posted up in the Virgin River Canyon Campground along
I15 on the way out. Bear in mind that
the elevation there is several thousand feet lower than most of the Monument. It’s hot there, often windy, and within
earshot of the highway. We planned to arrive late by taking a lunch stop on the
way out in the shady pine forest at 6000 feet and lounging in hammocks.
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Lunch stop in the pines (the van is, in fact, black under all that dirt). Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument
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In fact, I still have unfinished business, but that’s the
nature of expeditions.
I’ll repeat my disclaimer from the December post. GCPNM is
undoubtedly the most isolated overlanding destinations I’ve
explored. It’s likely one of the most remote in the country with
over 1200 miles of rough dirt roads. To attempt this you need (at a
minimum) a full-sized spare or two, tire repair capability and a compressor,
extra fuel for your vehicle, communication other than your cell phone and
preferably a way to follow weather patterns (we travel with an In-reach and
Starlink), much more food and water than you think you need, redundant maps
(think paper as well as electronic), first aid, warm clothes, and a modicum of
good sense and experience.
There’s more on the website, in the Spring 2026 Gallery.