Dune Tour

Hazy rising crescent moon, Ibex area of Death Valley

"If you say, 'well, that’s pretty much what I thought I’d see' you are in trouble. At that point, you have to ask yourself why you are even here."  ~ Anne Lamott

There’s basically no snow this year.  Having cancelled a ski trip, I had a big block of time to take the van out on my own.  It had been since April, and I was feeling the lack. My introverted soul needs both solitude and wilderness.

Desert Gold bloom, Ibex area of Death Valley

I thought it would be a bit early for flowers, but it was shaping up to be a good year in the California desert.  In the absence of information about the progress of the bloom, I set out for low altitude destinations (which I thought would be showing flowers first) to see for myself. I hope for the best.

I got it.

First I headed for Ibex Dunes in Death Valley National Park.  It’s been a few years since I’d been there, but at under 500 feet elevation, I liked my odds. 

“Superbloom” is a label used for a phenomenon when an unusually large proportion of wildflowers whose seeds have lain dormant in desert soil germinate and blossom at roughly the same time, generally in large carpets. The prerequisite is well-timed rains the previous fall and winter. There’s little agreement about what exactly constitutes a superbloom.

I do think I was treated to one at Ibex Dunes, though.

Desert Gold bloom, Ibex area of Death Valley

I turned a corner on the rough road and was astounded to see several multi-acre carpets of desert gold and golden suncap on the rocky east-facing slopes.  I immediately decided I’d stay for more than one night.  It was spectacular.

Brown Eyes, Ibex area of Death Valley

The walk from the road to the dunes at Ibex is about a mile, and I was surprised by a huge mat of brown eyes along the way.

Carpets of Phacelia and Desert Gold, Ibex Hills

On the way out, I decided on a whim to check out nearby Saratoga Springs.  I don’t find much that’s photogenic at the springs, but on the way there’s a geologic formation which I’ve wanted to include in a composition for many years.  It’s at the south end of the Ibex Hills and reveals delicious striped strata.  The thrill was that at its foot were blankets of Phacelia (scorpionweed) along with desert gold.  I love it when a whim pays off!

Brown Eyes Detail, Ibex area of Death Valley

I moved on after a couple of nights to Kelso Dunes in the Mojave National Preserve.  Those of you who have been there know that it’s a tough place to shoot with lots of dead vegetation.  High winds (I had to hunt for my stepstool when breaking camp in the morning) and socked-in overcast made for a challenging session.  I have nothing to share from Kelso.  I can vouch for the delights of an afternoon in camp, though.  Time for reading, processing photographs, art projects, and napping is a real gift. In a moment of synchronicity, I read the Ann Lamott quote that I opened this post with just when I needed it.

From there I swung by Amboy Crater, in the Mojave Trails National Monument.  I thought flowers among the black volcanic rocks would be beautiful, but I didn’t see much along the trail.  I did see no less than six camper vans in the parking lot (where camping is not allowed), with folks walking around in their pajamas and having their morning coffee.  I had planned to camp there (in the overflow parking lot, where it is allowed) if I thought there was photographic potential, but I moved on.

Dune Primrose backlighted at sunrise

My last stop was a dune field nearby.  I first heard about this place years ago from Jeff Foott, who died recently.  He asked that I not be specific about this location, so I won’t.  This visit felt like a chance to pay my respects to this kind man and talented photographer. I had some nice light there and delighted in the scattered dune primroses.  I’ve done lots of conventional dune photography here, but I decided to work mostly on the flowers this time.  That’s no small challenge because the areas in bloom are cluttered and chaotic compositionally.  I did make a few images I’m pleased with.

Massive blanket of Desert Gold flowers, Mojave Trails National Monument

Finally, there was a farewell gift of gargantuan fields of Desert Gold on the way home.

I’ll never tire of sand dunes, I’m sure.  And the superbloom is a welcome bonus.

More images are on the website, in the Winter 25-26 Gallery.  I know it looks like Spring, but really, it’s only mid-February.

Argentina

 

Mapuche Elder.  He didn't respond to my Spanish, but was game for a photo

First, a couple of disclaimers.  This was Marco’s fishing trip, on which I tagged along.  Photography was where I could find it, so there are not so many landscapes in ideal light.  I also spent two days in bed with food poisoning, during which photography was furthest from my mind. 

Marco casting on Lake Tronen

I'm going to hit the highlights. 

We spent a couple of days in Buenos Aires, enjoying art and landmarks.  One of the latter is the Grand Splendid Bookstore, a converted theater. 

Another favorite was the very old giant fig trees in the Recoleta section of the city which I was able to photograph in morning light.  It was a great, safe place to walk. 

Once in the Lake Section of Patagonia, wildlife was a highlight.  There was a guided morning birdwatching, and my favorite was a red fox in Lanìn National Park. 

From the back patio of the house we stayed in, there were views of Lanìn Volcano.  Photography doesn’t get much easier than that. 

The house was right on the Chimehuin River.  I didn’t find a landscape composition of the river that I liked but had fun with abstracts and reflections.

 

Hiking through the rainforests and among the monkey puzzle trees were a best part.  Lanìn was visible from many angles. 

The trails were full of flowers (it’s summer there after all).  Many native species show up in our gardens and flower shops. 

Perhaps my favorite photographs are portraits, taken of the Mapuche people and of Gauchos at the Rural Festival in Junìn.

As always, there’s more on the website, in the Winter 2025-26 Gallery.

Monthly Favorites 2025

Runner up: Grand Canyon AZ

Another year already? I’m cogitating the paradox of a year full of interesting things flying by at the speed of aging.  In any case, here’s the excruciating annual tradition of choosing (generally) one image per month that’s a favorite or represents a treasured experience.

Detail, Oak Creek AZ

January

I know I should start out with a bang, but I didn’t shoot much this month.  There was family travel and a couple of not-too-productive local trips.  One weekend we driveway-camped at a friend’s weekend property on Oak Creek near Cornville.  I made this image with my phone while doing a photo walk creekside. I love the dance of light, the warmth, and the movement in it.

Campsite. Harquahala Mountains AZ

February

This is more memory than art.  One of my favorite places to camp when I need to clear my head is the Harquahala Mountains, just over an hour from home.   I’ve never seen another camper out there.  That’s a big plus for me.  On this February morning I put up the drone and was taken by the geometry of the sahuaro shadows and creosote growing in the little washes. The shapes of the background mountains and the two-track feel good, too.

Death Valley CA

March

This month I got my mojo back.  I grabbed a last-minute opening in a Death Valley photo workshop with Jerry Dodrill and Todd Pickering and embraced a return to working in some places I’ve visited and shot quite a bit over the years.  The instruction and the company of my peers knocked some enthusiasm and awe back into my thick skull. It was tough to pick one, but here it is, a high-key sensuous abstract at Mesquite Dunes.

Mojave Trails National Monument CA

April

Back to the Mojave, this time with the family.  Marco and I orchestrated this one.  After sunrise I radioed to let him know I had finished shooting the early light and set up the telephoto lens.  He let the girl out of the van. Once Gypsy saw me, she ran almost a mile toward me (what’s more of a joy than unconditional dog love?) and I photographed her as if she were wildlife.  I love the curve, as well as her eye contact and joy. I made this one into a refrigerator magnet.

Saguaro Bloom, Aguila AZ

May

2025 was the worst year for desert annual blooms in my 35 years in Arizona.  The Sahuaros, though, went nuts.  This is a drone image near Highway 71 near Aguila.  I love the sky and the abandoned bird’s nest as well.  In truth, I want another chance, because my favorite image from this day, a top-down shot of a blooming sahuaro, was out of focus.  I learned that the drone camera can’t focus that close, but there’s no playback on my controller, so the moment was over before I learned that lesson.  Stay tuned – I’ll try again from slightly higher.

Spring in the Kaibab Forest AZ

June

June is early spring at 9000 feet in the North Kaibab Forest, just north of Grand Canyon.  This image, from one of my deeply loved spots there, shows aspens from just beginning to show leaf buds to that early stage of bright exuberant green which makes me glad to be alive.  This is one of many areas torched by the Dragon Bravo Fire just a month later.  

Upper Provo River UT

July

Provo River Gorge, another favorite spot, along the Upper Provo River. This is another example of a spectacular place that I might not have discovered if not for a fishing location tip from one of Marco’s buddies.

White Mountains AZ

August

I was camped with the family on one of the many tributaries of the Black River in Eastern Arizona, finishing a zoom meeting when I looked up and saw this light.  It was changing fast and I knew I’d miss it if I took the time to dig out the mirrorless camera. I survived a run down the hill in my crocs (don’t judge) to this spot on the creek which I’d scouted earlier. I might have been yelling some colorful things as well.

Fishlake National Forest AZ

September

The Fishlake National Forest was absolutely staggering last fall.  I had a hard time choosing one image from two nights camping there.  I know, this one is a little over-chaotic, but I couldn’t resist that light.  I ran up a hill littered with deadfall to get here, and if I’m honest I’ll admit I tripped on the way up.  I have no regrets.

Caddo Lake, LA

October

Back to Caddo Lake Texas for the third time. I had envisioned a high-key image like this of a cypress tree in the bayou and was thrilled to find it.  It’s in Louisiana.  Two of us were driving in from the airport in Shreveport and made a stop at Williamson Park.  I’m so glad to have shot this, because there wasn’t another opportunity and the color on this tree is better than most of what we saw that week (most of the trees had already dropped leaves), I just put a print of this image on my living room wall.

Post-storm view from Tunnel View, Yosemite National Park CA

November

My first trip to Yosemite.  This image also went up on my wall recently. We had lots of rain and not so much sunlight.  Some photographers call those “black and white” conditions.  This vista from Tunnel View has been shot as much as any in the park, but I love it for the ground fog and tonal gradation, if not for its originality. 

Gold Butte National Monument NV

December

December is tough, because I’m choosing between images I’ve just made.  I edit better if they can percolate a bit. I’ve recently returned from a family jaunt through Gold Butte National Monument (NV) and Grand Canyon – Parashant National Monument (AZ).  This is from hikes around a favorite spot at Gold Butte on a day when I was captivated by the light on the many wind erosion arches.

Blessings in the new year.  Thanks for your support in 2025.  I look forward with enthusiasm to sharing the surprises of 2026 and beyond.

Route May Include Unpaved Roads

Sunset from Twin Point, GCPNM

I’ll dedicate this post to my friend Danny Messersmith, who loved to bounce around on these remote roads and was generous with his advice when my own obsession was developing.  He also was the first of many to warn me about Kelly Point in Grand Canyon – Parashant National Monument (GCPNM).

Danny Messersmith 1947-2022

 “Adventure is just another name for trouble” ~ Louis L’Amour

I suppose I have your attention now, but you might be disappointed to know that there were no disasters.  A really good storyteller would make some up, but sadly I’ll limit myself to the usual benign exaggerations.

I’m fascinated by maps, and especially those with large expanses I’ve never explored.  As for GCPNM, I’d only nicked its Eastern edge when traveling to Toroweap Overlook, which is part of Grand Canyon National Park. The Monument comprises more than a million acres, so I thought I’d better get started.  Though I love traveling alone, I was glad my husband and dog could be talked into this adventure.  This one might have been a bit much on my own.

I went to all sorts of sources for advice and road information, with mixed results.  The best resource turned out to be a ranger named Jim in the St. George Utah BLM Field Office. He had lots of practical advice, especially about road conditions, and after a long conversation (during which he also warned us about Kelly Point, where one “x” resides on my map) he was kind enough to call back with “one more thing,” which resulted in the “x” on the map above the Grand Wash Cliffs Wilderness.  Later we heard stories about a short wheelbase jeep high centering on that segment.  So, we were advised to make the big circle north.  Like bowling, that’s something worth doing once in a lifetime, but only once. Next time, I’ll leave Gold Butte, circle up to St. George on the highway, and drop into the central area of the Monument from there. 

There are large expanses of GCPNM, including that big loop to the north, which are not inspiring to me photographically.  To make matters more challenging, over ¾ of the Monument is included in grazing leases, and so there are a lot of unattractive cattle-ravaged places to traverse to get to the magic. But that’s just the price we paid for remarkable solitude.  We saw 2 other vehicles during the first five days, and we were always deeply alone at our camps. There’s a whole discussion about BLM grazing leases which I’ll defer to another time.  It’s complicated, but mostly it’s ugly.  

Mud Wash area, Gold Butte National Monument NV

We started at Gold Butte National Monument, a place we’ve gotten attached to in the last few years.  We needed to meet with someone who was also camping there, and we thought it might be fun to approach Parashant from there, crossing from Nevada to Arizona. 

Mud Wash area, Gold Butte National Monument NV

The red rocks of Gold Butte were lovely, and I made a small series of images of wind-erosion caves, mostly because there were footprints all over the dunes themselves because there had been no wind for weeks, ironically.

Pakoon Springs, GCPNM

Water in the desert is always of interest.  We stopped at Pakoon Springs where the cottonwood and willow trees had turned an appealing yellow and made for an interesting aerial image. Typical of isolated places, Pakoon has a colorful history, including an alligator and ostriches.

Hidden Canyon just before dawn

So, about that north detour loop - at first it was just dull and slow, but as we turned southward, it got uglier. We probably should have done a little road modification to protect our 144-inch-wheelbase Sprinter, but there was no permanent damage. We covered 65 miles in about 6 hours that day and made an unexpected camp in a surprisingly lovely area called Hidden Canyon. We’d planned to make it to another destination but were tired enough to be deeply grateful for this camp.  I didn’t see much photographic potential but it was attractive from the drone.  Once we left Hidden Canyon, we appreciated driving on a more normal bad road – it’s all relative.

Mount Dellenbaugh from the forest below

Happy hikers at the summit of Mount Dellenbaugh

We had a nice hike up Mount Dellenbaugh, with 360-degree views of the Monument.  The trail is about six miles and gains about 900 vertical feet from a small pine forest to the summit. Twin Point is in the midground and you can just make out Mt. Charleston in the background, 104 miles away. From the NPS website,

Mt. Dellenbaugh is part of the history of the Grand Canyon and its first exploration by John Wesley Powell in 1869. Powell named this peak for Frederick Dellenbaugh, an artist who joined Powell's second expedition in 1870-71. However, it is most known for being the mountain that William Dunn and the Howland brothers climbed after deserting Powell's first expedition. After the three had climbed out of the Grand Canyon they needed a vantage point to get their bearings... They disappeared in the vicinity and stories from the time point to several possible culprits, but ultimately their murders were never solved.

Sunrise from Twin Point, GCPNM

Next, we enjoyed two nights camped in different spots on Twin Point.  Twin is just east of Kelly Point, smaller, and much more easily reached.  Ranger Jim warned that the juniper trees lining the road made for a tight passage, but some time in the last year hundreds of trees and branches have been removed and there are just a few tight spots left in the road.  Marco negotiated those just fine.

Juniper backlighted at Twin Point, GCPNM

I loved the chance to enjoy a new-to-me Grand Canyon viewpoint and to orient myself to landmarks like Diamond Peak and the Skywalk at Grand Canyon West.  We were pleased to be far enough away that the helicopter noise from the latter was almost not discernable.

More backlight, GCPNM

I enjoyed an afternoon photo walk out there. In addition to photos, I love this exercise in mindfulness which helps me notice things I might otherwise walk right past.  I toddled around with just my iPhone attached to a grip which makes the phone feel more like a camera. Less equipment gives me a sense of freedom.

Alstrom Point, Glen Canyon NRA, 2017.  One dog ago.

Family Portrait at Twin Point

Gypsy had mixed feelings about this place, paved as it is with typical North Rim “carnivorous limestone.”  It’s tough on her paws.  We appreciated her sitting still for this re-creation of a shot at Alstrom point with Luna in 2017.

Oak Grove Cabin, GCPNM

There were some quirky places, artifacts of the long history of this place.  One example is the ruins of Oak Grove Cabin, also known as Thayne Cabin. Originally inhabited in 1879, the area was used for dairy, ranching, and a sawmill.

Virgin River Canyon, Arizona

We cut the trip short by a day because of a big incoming rainstorm and stayed in the Virgin River Gorge at the northwest corner of Arizona. This place is spectacular, and almost impossible to shoot well except with a drone.  The highway 15 corridor through the canyon is flanked by wilderness (no-fly) areas, so the options for drone flights are limited.  Still, I had a good time and would love to shoot there again in better light. 

GCPNM is undoubtedly the most isolated overlanding destinations I’ve explored.  It’s likely one of the most remote in the country with over 1200 miles of rough dirt roads.  The drive from St. George to Twin Point is about five slow hours.  My disclaimer – to attempt this you need (at a minimum) a full-sized spare or two, tire repair capability and a compressor, extra fuel for your vehicle, communication other than your cell phone and preferably a way to follow weather patterns (we travel with an In-reach and Starlink), much more food and water than you think you need, redundant maps, first aid, warm clothes, and a modicum of good sense and experience.

I’m already planning my next trip.

As always, there’s more on the website, in the Winter 2025-26 Gallery

Yosemite

View from Glacier Point, sunset. Yosemite National Park.

There’s quite a bit I can say about my first trip to Yosemite.  First off, this place could be described as the historical center of landscape photography in the American West.  I thought a workshop would be a good plan for my first trip, and when the opportunity to do it through the Ansel Adams Gallery inside the park AND to do it with Jerry Dodrill (search his name in this blog – he comes up a lot), this seemed to be the time.

I was just back from Caddo Lake and had some adventures with air travel on that trip, so I was willing – happy even – with the plan to drive the 11 hours over two days, each way. 

El Capitan reflected, Yosemite National Park.

There’s an odd thing that happens with perception when you’re looking up 3,000 stark, steep feet.  I couldn’t wrap my head around it (except when there were climbers on the walls for scale) and found the experience disorienting. 

Grand Canyon Light, by Charles Pabst.

I can draw parallels with a “big ditch” that I’m more familiar with, the Grand Canyon.  I’m fact, I stumbled on this lovely painting which seems to draw the comparison by steepening the walls of Grand Canyon and adding in an unmistakable Half-Dome shape on the right.  But that’s just the point.  Grand Canyon’s walls are not nearly as starkly vertical as Yosemite’s.  Though perspective is tough to gain there, I don’t find the attempt dizzying as I did in Yosemite.

Incidentally, I contacted Mr. Pabst, asking whether I'd correctly guessed his intention.  I've not yet had an answer.

Late autumn dancers, Cook's Meadow. Yosemite National Park.

During the drive, I resolved to work on some of the iconic, much-photographed views (because who can resist?) but also to be mindful of the intimate landscapes and small details. There were plenty, and those shots are much easier to do well in gloomy light, of which we had a lot.

Tunnel View in low fog, Yosemite National Park.

Another classic strategy for dealing with flat light photographically is to present the images in black and white, like this classic composition from Tunnel View.

Cascade Falls, Yosemite National Park.

Likewise, this image from a day we were positively pummeled by rain.  These conditions present an opportunity for a running dialog of my inner voices.  Working in that kind of weather is not so pleasant.  Jerry reminded us of a bit of wisdom from his mentor Galen Rowell along these lines – that kind of weather is exactly what we should be out shooting in.  I’ll go a step further and say that’s where the magic happens. Grumpy magic.

Lower Yosemite Falls, Yosemite National Park.

After the rainiest day and night, I awoke in my cabin at Yosemite Valley Lodge to a sound I can only describe as roll-off trash dumpsters being pushed off and landing below the cliff.  It was Yosemite Falls.  I pulled on rain gear and took a walk up to the observation bridge. I had a striking experience of the power of nature and felt acutely tiny and vulnerable.  I’m sorry I only had my phone camera, but I was so glad I was there, being pummeled by the wind and spray.

A little welcome sunshine, Cook's Meadow. Yosemite National Park.

Speaking of the gallery, our group had the honor, one rainy day, to see a number of original Ansel Adams prints and to hear history from Curator Evan Russel and Assistant Curator Michael Wise. There were some surprises along the way, including stories from another workshop participant about his own grandfather’s relationship with Ansel Adams.  He brought images and correspondence for all of us to explore.  This part of the experience was a delightful Adams immersion, which reminded me of the “In the Footsteps of Georgia O’Keeffe” trip masterfully curated by Colleen Miniuk. 

Three Brothers Reflected in the Merced River, Yosemite National Park.

Like a surfer waiting for the perfect wave, I hope to be back and maybe have a chance to see the light we were waiting for.

Thanks for standing out in the rain with me.

More images are in the Autumn 2025 Gallery on the website.