My traveling companion was clearly getting tired of hearing me
say it, but it’s getting crowded out there. Sorry, Tim; I’m going to talk about
that a little more here. Some places we
visited last week were prohibitively busy.
Slot canyons, for example, are not so much fun with a steady stream of people
coming through, kicking up dirt and knocking me into my tripod.
I’m sure that this phenomenon has more than one cause but the
Instagram syndrome surely plays a large part. There’s also the current camping vogue. Trends come and go, of course. I was overlanding
before it became popular, and I’ll be doing it after the thing passes and might
even take advantage of a great deal on a used camping vehicle when it does.
The famous places we visited were full of people. Those that I’ve been frequenting for the
better part of a decade were quiet (even lonely) then. At Horseshoe Bend, for example, sunrises ten
years ago were a solitary affair. About
a year ago, my last visit, there were easily 100 people there. The Glen Canyon National Recreation Area is
currently building a larger parking lot, restrooms, and pay stations at
Horseshoe. Really, what choice do they
have?
That being said, we also had some quiet times on this photo
tour, organized by Kerrick James (K J
Photo Safaris) and guided in part by Brent Johnson out of
Kanab. More on that later.
One way to find solitude is to shoot at night, and that we
did. Devil’s Garden is in Grand
Staircase Escalante National Monument.
This shot includes the famous (and well-visited during the day) Metate
Arch, naturally light-painted by the last light 45 minutes or so after sunset.
I’ve already whined about the slots, and I’ve really only
got one shot that I like from that morning, from Spooky slot. It’s a good thing I shot its neighbor, Peek-A
Boo Canyon, several years ago.
Another thing that keeps crowds out of well-known places is
the need to hike. Broken Bow arch was a
new spot for me, and the four of us were delightfully alone down there. The midday light isn’t ideal, but perhaps I’ll
get a permit and spend the night down there one day.
Backlighted cottonwood and desert varnish |
The hike to Broken bow yielded some lovely detail shots as
well.
Luck gave us a few minutes more or less to ourselves at
Lower Calf Creek Falls. It was a wet
winter in the Southwest, so we were fortunate with the high flows as well. We
started passing people on the hike back. And more people. I’d say there were 200 in all. You can imagine what the parking situation
was like. My advice: go early.
Long Canyon area |
Photographers say that the way to make harsh or overcast
mid-day light work photographically is to use black and white. We had a little drive-by at Long Canyon along
the Burr Trail and that wisdom worked out well for me.
Bryce Detail |
Speaking of drive-bys, we spent an hour or so in Bryce
Canyon National Park, taking advantage of the last bits of snow among the
hoodoos. I expect people there, and
there’s plenty of room, so the crowds weren’t so much of an issue. Well, except when (ahem) looking for a place
to relieve myself discreetly.
Coming down 89A from the Kaibab Plateau, we say expanses of
purple. I’ve never seen this before, and
I don’t know what the flower species is (help would be appreciated), but they
were very photogenic in the House Rock Valley Road area.
White Pocket. I’ve camped there about 8 nights in the last
ten years or so. There’s hardly ever
been anyone there other than my group. It’s
perhaps the worst example of the Instagram syndrome we saw; we were
inundated. There were about 25 people
camping, some out on the rocks themselves rather than in the usual (away from
the photogenic stuff) camping spots.
People had hung glow-sticks (presumably for night navigation) and were
flying drones. The most positive thing I
can say about all this is that there’s a creative challenge inherent in
composing images in order to avoid 15 photographers in my foreground. This is a
special place, but I might not be back.
Finally, the undisclosed location. I’m so grateful to Brent for the opportunity
to see and photograph this alcove. In
addition to the grandeur of the architecture, this place has delicate,
untouched rock fins whose beauty broke my heart. I’ve
written about this before. Perhaps
it’s inevitable that this place will become known, but I’m committed to not
publishing its whereabouts on the internet.
Not on my watch.
So at the end of our adventure, there was this magical place
not yet reached by the Instagram syndrome. What a privilege.
More from this adventure can be found in the Utah Gallery on the
website.
I'd say you found a few beautiful places to shoot without the crowds. We who find such beauty don't have to share exactly where. Not seeing a closeup of the flowers makes ID difficult, maybe a verbena?
ReplyDeleteThanks, Gaelyn. There's a lot to be thankful for this trip for sure. You're right; I should have taken a documentary shot of the flowers. Did you ever see the purple carpets there? It was new to me!
DeleteDon't mind you bringing this up. Clearly you have a different perspective than I for which all of these places (save Bryce Canyon) are new to me. It would have been nice to be all alone out there but...we wern't. I suppose it's just like weather, you have to take what nature gives you and work with it. While clearly we all run the risk of loving such places to death, I do remember a line from the '70's - Take only pictures, leave only footprints. Having just been in Death Valley a month ago, and seeing how many folks just want to 'get those photos' over ran the dunes and other popular spots. I'd expect old Ansel would have gone elsewhere to get his iconic dune shots.
ReplyDeleteHonestly, the almost silly memory I have of White Pocket was that guy coming up to me zeroed on his cell phone looking - apparently - at an image asking me 'do you know where this is?' I answered, honestly, no, this is my first time here and all I know is what I see. Apparently he had to 'get that shot' in the fading light before? the tour bus left? I went back to just taking the place in looking for a shot, trying to just discover the place sans the other photogs.
Thanks for your comments. It's a special place, even under these circumstances.
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